Unlaced: The Slow Unraveling of China’s Former King of Men’s Footwear

Aokang International, once China's leading men's footwear brand, has reported its fourth consecutive year of losses as it struggles with a sharp decline in revenue and the closure of nearly 400 stores. The company's failure to maintain international partnerships and adapt to shifting consumer tastes highlights a broader crisis for legacy domestic retailers.

Colorful sneakers arranged on store shelves showcasing trendy footwear options.

Key Takeaways

  • 1Aokang reported a 2025 net loss of 241 million RMB, marking four straight years of negative earnings totaling 924 million RMB.
  • 2The company shuttered 767 stores and opened 368 in 2025, resulting in a net loss of 399 retail locations in 12 months.
  • 3Core revenue from men’s footwear fell by 27%, while agency revenue from international brand Skechers collapsed by over 55%.
  • 4Major shareholders have been aggressively offloading stock, signaling a lack of confidence in the company's recovery strategy.
  • 5A slight Q1 2026 profit was driven by accounting adjustments and investment gains rather than a recovery in retail sales.

Editor's
Desk

Strategic Analysis

Aokang’s decline is a cautionary tale of the 'middle-income trap' facing traditional Chinese retail. The company is caught between two worlds: it lacks the premium prestige of luxury European imports and the functional appeal of the rising athleisure movement led by brands like Anta and Li-Ning. As China’s professional dress codes become more casual, the demand for formal leather shoes—Aokang’s bread and butter—is evaporating. Furthermore, its failure to retain international agency contracts like Skechers suggests that global brands no longer see value in traditional Chinese brick-and-mortar distributors who lack a strong digital-first ecosystem. Aokang's 'recovery' through financial engineering rather than product innovation suggests that without a radical brand pivot, it may follow other legacy Chinese icons into irrelevance.

China Daily Brief Editorial
Strategic Insight
China Daily Brief

For decades, Aokang International stood as the undisputed titan of China’s men’s footwear industry. As the first listed leather shoe company in the country, it was a staple of the burgeoning middle class's wardrobe. However, the company's latest financial disclosures reveal a brand in structural retreat, marking its fourth consecutive year of losses and a total deficit of 924 million RMB (approximately $127 million) since 2022.

The 2025 annual report paints a bleak picture of a legacy retail giant struggling to maintain its footing in a rapidly evolving market. Revenue plummeted by over 24% year-on-year to 1.92 billion RMB, while its core men’s shoe segment—which accounts for 60% of total sales—saw income drop by 27%. Perhaps more telling is the physical disappearance of the brand from Chinese streets; the company executed a net closure of 399 stores in a single year, bringing its total count down to 1,836 locations.

Aokang’s woes are compounded by the total collapse of its international agency business. Once a distributor for global brands like Skechers and Puma, Aokang has seen its partnership revenue from these labels effectively zero out. Skechers revenue alone fell by over 55%, reflecting a broader trend where international brands are increasingly opting for direct-to-consumer models or more agile local partners, leaving legacy distributors like Aokang marginalized.

While the first quarter of 2026 showed a technical return to profitability, the underlying health of the firm remains precarious. Most of the quarterly gains were attributed to changes in the fair value of equity investments and aggressive cost-cutting measures rather than a resurgence in consumer demand. With major shareholders like Xiang Jinyu liquidating significant portions of their holdings, the market’s confidence in a long-term turnaround for the 'Number One Men’s Shoe Stock' appears to be wearing thin.

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