The Cold Reality of Heritage: Why China’s Roast Duck King is Losing Its Sizzle

Quanjude, China’s most famous roast duck brand, reported a 77% drop in net profit for 2025 alongside declining revenues and store closures. The 162-year-old institution is struggling to compete with younger rivals as its high-cost, heritage-heavy model fails to resonate with value-conscious modern diners.

Succulent roasted ducks hanging on display in a Seattle butcher shop window, showcasing culinary craftsmanship.

Key Takeaways

  • 1Net profit collapsed by 77% to 7.75 million yuan in 2025, with an actual operating loss when excluding government subsidies.
  • 2The brand is losing market share on social platforms to competitors like Siji Minfu, which offer better perceived value and lifestyle appeal.
  • 3Geographic over-reliance remains a critical vulnerability, with 77% of revenue still generated within North China.
  • 4Despite high menu prices, the company’s catering margins are squeezed to 10.71% by rising operational costs.
  • 5Survival strategies include high-end concept store redesigns and international expansion into the U.S. market.

Editor's
Desk

Strategic Analysis

Quanjude’s decline is emblematic of a broader crisis facing China’s 'Laozihao' brands. For decades, these state-linked or historical entities relied on name recognition and tourism as a moat. However, the post-pandemic Chinese consumer is increasingly 'value-rational,' prioritizing social media aesthetics and price-to-quality ratios over historical pedigree. Quanjude's inability to lower prices while maintaining high service costs creates a 'middle-income trap' for the brand: it is too expensive for casual dining but lacks the exclusivity of modern fine dining. Its international expansion into New York and LA may offer a secondary revenue stream, but the core issue remains the brand's cultural stagnation at home.

China Daily Brief Editorial
Strategic Insight
China Daily Brief

For over 160 years, Quanjude has stood as the undisputed guardian of Beijing’s culinary identity. The iconic roast duck chain, once an essential pilgrimage for any visitor to the capital, famously claimed that a trip to China was incomplete without a walk on the Great Wall and a meal at its tables. Yet, the 2025 financial results suggest that for modern diners, the regret of missing Quanjude is fading as fast as the company’s bottom line.

The numbers paint a stark picture of a heritage brand in retreat. Revenue for 2025 fell to 1.255 billion yuan, a decline of nearly 150 million yuan compared to the previous year. More alarming is the collapse in profitability; net profit plummeted by 77% to a mere 7.75 million yuan. When stripping away government subsidies and non-recurring gains, the storied institution actually posted a core operating loss of over 6.2 million yuan. This fiscal erosion has forced a retreat on the ground, with the company’s store count shrinking from 101 to 97 locations over the past year.

Quanjude’s struggle is a textbook case of the 'Laozihao' (time-honored brand) dilemma: a failure to reconcile historical prestige with modern consumer expectations. On social media platforms like Xiaohongshu, Quanjude has been overtaken by nimbler rivals like Siji Minfu and Bianyifang, which offer superior atmosphere or better value. A standard meal for two at Quanjude now averages 342 yuan, significantly higher than its direct competitors, yet the company’s catering margin sits at a razor-thin 10.71%. High overheads in labor, rent, and ingredients are effectively cannibalizing the premium that the brand once commanded.

Beyond pricing, the brand faces structural 'original sins' inherent to its business model. Quanjude remains heavily tethered to North China, which accounts for 77% of its revenue. Its high-ceremony, dine-in service model has struggled to find a foothold in Southern China’s diverse culinary landscape. Furthermore, the roast duck category itself is under siege; younger consumers increasingly view it as a low-frequency 'special occasion' meal for elders or tourists rather than a repeat-purchase staple. In a market saturated with trendy hotpot and international cuisines, the roasted duck is losing its place in the daily diet.

Management is not standing still, attempting to modernize the brand through experiential dining. Recent efforts include the launch of a 'Sky Siheyuan' concept at its Hepingmen branch and a palace-style redesign at its Wangfuijng flagship. The company is also looking West, opening franchised outlets in New York and Los Angeles in 2025. However, whether interior design and overseas expansion can fix a fundamental disconnect with domestic youth remains the billion-yuan question for this Qing-dynasty relic.

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