Kao Pulls KATE’s Online Flagships from China as It Repositions Upmarket

Kao’s KATE will close its Tmall and Douyin flagship stores on 1 April 2026 as part of an online channel optimisation tied to the group’s wider premiumisation strategy. The move reflects mounting pressure on foreign mass-market cosmetics in China from local rivals and costly platform dynamics, even as Kao retains other China operations and aims to prioritise higher-margin brands.

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Key Takeaways

  • 1KATE will cease sales on its Tmall and Douyin flagship stores from 1 April 2026; orders before that date will be shipped and customer service continues through 30 April.
  • 2KATE’s Tmall shop had over 2.3 million followers and about 30,000 annual repeat customers; its eyebrow palette had 600k+ favourites.
  • 3Kao says the closure is an online channel optimisation and will not affect other Kao brands in China; the company is shifting toward premiumisation under its K27 plan.
  • 4The exit mirrors a wider trend of foreign affordable makeup brands pulling back from China’s online marketplaces amid fierce competition and high platform costs.
  • 5Kao’s cosmetics business grew in fiscal 2025, but the group is reallocating resources to stronger localised or higher-end brands such as Freeplus and Curel.

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Strategic Analysis

KATE’s withdrawal from two of China’s most important e-commerce channels is a strategic signal as much as a tactical retreat. For Kao, the decision reduces the operational drag and promotional burden of competing in a low-margin, highly promotional segment dominated by domestic challengers and influencer-driven buying cycles. It also reflects a broader industry dynamic: international budget and mid-tier beauty brands face rising customer-acquisition costs on platform ecosystems that reward scale, rapid turnover and intense discounting. Expect Kao and peers to sharpen portfolio choices — doubling down on premium lines, pursuing deeper localisation for brands with strong Chinese appeal, or shifting sales toward cross-border and selective offline partnerships. For consumers, the change narrows choice in the accessible Japanese-makeup niche and consolidates market share for nimble local brands and better-capitalised global players willing to invest in China’s distinct retail economics.

China Daily Brief Editorial
Strategic Insight
China Daily Brief

Kao Group’s mass-market makeup brand KATE will close its Tmall and Douyin official flagship stores on 1 April 2026, the company announced in customer notices this week. The move stops direct online sales through the two biggest domestic platforms; orders placed before 1 April will generally ship within 48 hours, and online customer service will remain available until 30 April to handle returns, refunds and points redemption requests.

The shutdown applies only to KATE’s China online flagship operations: Kao says the decision is an “optimization” of its Chinese online channels and will not affect other Kao brands in China or KATE’s overseas Taobao store. Consumers holding loyalty points or stored balances were told they can apply for redemption by 31 March, with stored-value refunds to be processed centrally. KATE’s Tmall shop had more than 2.3 million followers and an active base of about 30,000 repeat customers; its most popular item, a three-colour eyebrow palette, had been favorited over 600,000 times.

KATE was launched in 1997 by Kanebo and became part of Kao after the latter’s 2006 acquisition. Positioned as a high-value, affordable Japanese brand, KATE established a foothold in China via Watsons in 2010 and opened a Tmall flagship in 2014. Its closure from two major Chinese e-commerce channels highlights the pressures facing foreign mass-market cosmetics in the country’s crowded, price-sensitive marketplace.

The retreat also fits within Kao’s broader strategic shift. Under the K27 mid-term plan published in 2025, Kao signalled a tilt toward premiumisation, prioritising higher-end and locally developed brands in China such as Freeplus (Furifulansu) and Curel. Kao’s cosmetics division reported ¥261.6 billion in net sales for fiscal 2025, up 6.9% year-on-year, with Asian sales rising 16.2% to ¥45.3 billion — but the group appears to be reallocating resources to segments it deems higher-growth or higher-margin in China.

KATE’s withdrawal is not an isolated case. Since 2023, a string of foreign affordable makeup labels — including Revolution Beauty, Revlon’s Chinese online presence, LA Girl, NYX and others — have scaled back or closed official online stores in China. Factors behind these exits include fierce competition from domestic upstarts, high marketing and platform costs, and shifting consumer tastes toward either premium international names or highly localised homegrown brands.

For consumers and China-based sellers, the decision will reverberate through distribution and influencer channels that built around KATE’s affordable positioning. For Kao, the change reduces the company’s exposure to promotional pressure on mass-market platforms and frees investment for brands targeted in its China localisation push. It also raises questions about how international fast-fashion cosmetics will balance scale and profitability in a market now dominated by local competitors and sophisticated platform economics.

In practical terms, the shutdown means KATE’s most visible retail presences on Tmall and Douyin will disappear, yet the brand remains in China through other Kao operations and third-party channels. The episode underscores a broader industry recalibration: foreign mid-tier brands are being forced to choose between heavy investment to localise and compete, repositioning upmarket, or retreating from direct-to-consumer online platforms in China.

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